Kölsch, a Summer Beer Worth the Fuss
As hard as I’ve looked, I’ve found only three Kölsches imported from Germany: Gaffel, Reissdorf and Sünner. Each is excellent, and if I have a slight preference for Gaffel, it’s because I’ve had it fresh from the tap at Loreley, while the others I’ve found only in bottles.
American craft brewers, who have resurrected many obscure genres, seem a bit reluctant with Kölsch. Partly, that’s because it’s a demanding style to make well, but also there’s a sense among brewers that its subtleties will not resonate with consumers.
“Generally, craft brew fans are looking for bold flavors, and the joy of Kölsch is in its subtlety,” said Ron Barchet, a founder and chief executive of Victory Brewing Company in Downingtown, Pa. “It doesn’t blast you with hops or alcohol.”
Victory makes a Kölsch-style beer each summer, but sells it only on draft in its brew pub. “Unfortunately, it hasn’t had the following we’d like to see,” Mr. Barchet said, “but my partner and I love to brew these beers and to drink them.”
I had this beer directly from the tap in Germany and thought it was one of the most delicious draft beers I’d ever tasted. It didn’t strike me as a beer that would be anywhere near as good in a bottle.